Ok, last time Apex smashed in my inner fairing by dropping it with the front wheel off and denying it. BUT I brought it back in anyways for a valve job. $110, couldn't beat it. Lets see what they break this time.
METRO, I called about 5 times from 9am-10am on tuesday, but no answer. I wanted to have you guys work on it when I was in Denver on wednesday doing other things. Was gonna trailer it up to you. I hope I didn't make ANOTHER mistake by bring it back to apex..........
Ya if you ask around, youll see why lot a people dont go to Apex. I honestly cant stant the SOB's . Havent been back there in like 4 or 5 years.
Sorry to hear that you guys have had bad experiences w/ the folks from Apex. I have had good luck w/ them.
I mean like they have this GREAT deal on apparel and stuff occasionally, like my $360 alpinestar jacket for $100, and oem parts are fairly cheap there too. BUT their service department seems shitty as hell. I just joe bob's cousin, who's in to visit the family in the trailer park, isn't gonna be doing my shim/bucket valve adjustment.
They were supposed to call me on friday afternoon to get my bike. Well 10 till closing I decided to just drop by. Turns out, it took them longer than usual, no problem. They said almost all 16 valves had to be shimmed. They seemed kind of surprised. 20,000 miles in a year and half tends to stretch those out pretty good or sink in the valve seats. They quoted me $110, I called and they finished today, saturday, and the total is $125 and some change. Now time to see what the end result is like......... Hopefully it's not gonna be like Josh's gsxr-750 when he spun the rod bearing under warranty. Rocky forgot to tighten the fuel lines and it puked a whole 4.8 gallons or so onto his hot motor two miles from the shop.
Picked up the bike. VERY impressed this time. Total cost was $125.91 They had to shim EVERY intake valve, but every exhaust valve was in spec. The guys there were tripping out over having to adjust all the intake valves. They said Hondas generally dont' even need to have the valves adjustmented much, even after 30,000+ miles. They said there was heavy silt in the intake. And the silt was chewing up my valve seats. The culprit....... K&N AIR FILTER. The rubber edges are soooo soft on it, that it would warp sorta and the left and right edges of the filter was lifting up. Allowing large particles to go through. At 20,000 miles in the short period of time I crammed the miles on, I thought it was normal to have the valves chatter. Nope. So instead of switching to stock filter, here's my idea. Use a soldering iron to melt a groove alone the top or side edge all the way around. Then bend clothes hanger or wielding rod (similiar look/size as hanger) and epoxy it into the filter. To reinforce the edges and keep the edges from warping when tighten down.
So my question from this is, what is stiffer, that wielding rod, NOT WIRE, or clothes hanger?
And for my verdict of Apex THIS TIME, I give them
Here are my readings
INTAKE Valves:
cy#1:
Left: .005 present shim: 198 replacement shim: 190
right: .004 present shim: ? replacement shim: 188
cy#2:
Left: .006 present shim: 195 replacement shim: 190
right: .006 present shim: 195 replacement shim: 190
cy#3:
Left: .004 present shim: 192 replacement shim: 182
right: .004 (snug) present shim: 192 replacement shim: 182
cy#4:
Left: .004 present shim: 192 replacement shim: 182
right: .004 present shim: 190 replacement shim: 180
EXHAUST VALVES: no adjustment
cy#1:
Left: .011
right: .010
cy#2:
Left: .010
right: .010
cy#3:
Left: .010
right: .010
cy#4:
Left: .010
right: .010
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