pssh whatever, my bike had oil in it when I bought it. case closed.
pssh whatever, my bike had oil in it when I bought it. case closed.
(semi off-topic)
Just thought I'd throw some more oil on the fire. Here is an excellent article by a very reputable race shop, Forced Performance. Well known in the DSM world, building 900+whp DSM's, Evo's, etc.
AGAINST using Mobil-1 Synthetic as bunk:
http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf
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'08 Yamaha R1 (black), mostly stock. Past bikes: '98 VFR-800 (red), '01 CBR-929RR (white/red), '05 Yamaha R6 (white), '08 Yamaha R1 (blue).
'94 Supra Turbo 6spd. (black), BUILT motor/head, CompTurbo CT43-xx, '69 Dodge Coronet SuperBee tribute, 440/520 SixPack stroker, auto.
They're talking about highly modified engines without cats and 500 whp, for your daily driver with cats and stock hp non-race oils are best since they won't kill your catalytic converter--costly to replace when you fail emissions.Originally Posted by Ghosty
Faster, faster, faster, until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death.
~Hunter S. Thompson
If you study his chart I noticed the motorcycle specific Mobil1 blends are approved for race engines
Per Rybo's advice, I have used Mobil 1 for years in my R1. I haven't had any problems at all. I pick up a 5 quart container at WalMart for about $25.00. I also use a Purelator car oil filter. So far, so good.
Rybo said he would buy me a new engine if mine blew up anyway. That is good enough for me.
What- like I'm going to disagree with Rybo?!
I ran Mobil 1 15-50 for years in my VFR. (And when I had a Porsche on loan and it needed some oil I dumped Mobil 1 in there too.)
But lately I've been running Redline oils in most everything. In particular the trans fluid in the 2 stroke dirt bike- BUTTERY smooth. And we ran their moto oil in Rybo's race bike last season. Pretty sure it's the same as their car oil but in a different bottle. But they don't charge more for it being moto. It's all expensive.
I have used synthetic Mobil 1 for the past 15 years on my bikes and cars. The other day I was talking to one of my friends that is a motorcycle mechanic, about my clutch starting to go. Oils came up during the conversation and really started to redirect the thought of the clutch going bad to maybe the clutch slipping because of the oil.
I was sure it wasnt the oil, I have never had a problem, but this conversation made me go look at the oil I am using. I have known to avoid the Energy Conserving additives but I wanted to take another look at everything.
I am sitting on 3 cases of Mobil 1 5w30 from Costco and noticed for the first time that there IS the additive in it. Shit part is that its not listed on the outer case box!!! Its only listed on the bottle.
Either way, im assuming that is what my clutch issue is. It seems to slip under load at high rpms.
Ah, didn't see that the first time around, nice. I use to use Mobile1 in my car, until reading more on "BobTheOilGuy" forums (big oil/fluids site, tons of in-depth analysis.) BradPenn & Amsoil are rated way up there.
I use Brad Penn ("green oil") in my Supra. A little pricier and hard to find, but worth it, from everything I've read of other racers. Not sure what I'll use on my bike yet, need to research more.
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'08 Yamaha R1 (black), mostly stock. Past bikes: '98 VFR-800 (red), '01 CBR-929RR (white/red), '05 Yamaha R6 (white), '08 Yamaha R1 (blue).
'94 Supra Turbo 6spd. (black), BUILT motor/head, CompTurbo CT43-xx, '69 Dodge Coronet SuperBee tribute, 440/520 SixPack stroker, auto.
Ezzy - ALL 5w30 oils will be energy conserving.
The Mobil 1 oil that you're looking for is the 15W50, which is the ONLY variety of mobil 1 automotive oil that does not contain friction modifiers.
TFOG brings up a good point that I wasn't aware of, and that's that the Mobil 1 oils may have been reformulated. I don't think that this is going to have a major impact on the streetbikes, as they aren't seeing the continuous load that a racebike is. I wouldn't hesitate to run it in a streetbike at all.
Like IRDAVE said - we ran the redline oil in my racebike last season and will probably be doing the same again in 2012. One of the things I like about that brand is that they are using high quality base stocks AND they are making the product here in the USA.
Let's all remember that the key to this whole thing is staying on top of your routine maintenance. There are very few applications that any of us are going to use oil for that isn't well within the ability of ANY oil that we are discussing. None of these oils are "bad", but some are better than others.
FWIW I gave Patrick the advice about 15W50 Mobil 1 oil like 6 years ago - I haven't had to buy him an engine yet.
s
Last edited by rybo; Wed Feb 15th, 2012 at 09:13 AM.
Yeh, I was just looking at that. Thanks man.
I do have a few quarts that are 8+ months old? that do not have the additive.
Oh well time for an oil change anyways...
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