I'm thinking the pilot jet may be a possibility, or the needle. You can see the pipe is kinda bluing and there is some popping/chugging/stumbling at about 1/2 3/4 throttle held constant. I have a KN filter, 155 main jet, and full yoshi.
Thoughts?
I'm thinking the pilot jet may be a possibility, or the needle. You can see the pipe is kinda bluing and there is some popping/chugging/stumbling at about 1/2 3/4 throttle held constant. I have a KN filter, 155 main jet, and full yoshi.
Thoughts?
The more I read the more I believe I may need to drop a spot in the needle. I'm going to go do that and see where I am.
If that's accurate, makes complete sense. I'm going to go down 1 (needle down) on the needle and go from there.The needle controls 1/4-3/4 throttle, jet is 1/2-wot, if you have an air mix screw it affects closed - 1/4.
Last edited by TransNone13; Thu Sep 19th, 2013 at 05:01 PM.
My drz is jetted for here and it still pops. They don't like to be held in one spot. They love accel and decel. I do t remember the jetting I'm running. But mine is also built a little more.
2015 R1200GS
03 & 11 XR-50 pit bike
07 & 08 DRZ 400SM
06 FJR 1300
70 SL 350
75 MT 250
Thanks for the input, it was more than just popping. But I went down one with the clip (needle up) trying to get a little more fuel. It was more than just popping, will keep testing tomorrow when the sun is out.Originally Posted by sloridr
It would kind of surge. I don't mind experimenting, it's easy to work on and I'm learning.
Last edited by TransNone13; Thu Sep 19th, 2013 at 07:22 PM.
Depending on what exhaust you have, the bluing may be normal. I never got rid of the backfiring on mine after a bunch of tinkering so I may not be the best source of truth but I would just shoot for throttle response that makes you happy. There's a ton of jetting combos for different mods over on thumpertalk that might give you some options to try.
Did you get the high altitude jet kit? Bluing is normal. Popping could be not sealing good at exhaust flange/cyl head. Take a look at the spark plug…porcelain should be a nice tan color.
John
KTM Duke 690
Also, you have the CV carb which is harder to tune than the FCR carb.
John
KTM Duke 690
Take a look at common mods on the DRZ pages at TT. Air box mod, manual CCT, SSW throttle kit come to mind.
John
KTM Duke 690
I've done the airbox, haven't done throttle yet, and I'm leary of doing the CCT right out the gate with a new bike.
Is it worth getting the FCR carb?
This guy right here?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DRZ400-DRZ-4...-/350390489841
Sounds like everyone loves the FCR carb conversion. Damnit, more shit to get sooner rather than later. lol
Last edited by TransNone13; Fri Sep 20th, 2013 at 06:28 AM.
I'd try getting the CV carb sorted first. FCR carb is probably the most bolt-on performance gain for a stock Dizzer. You can always do it later.
John
KTM Duke 690
I raised the needle one spot and it feels much better. If that's the case, I'll give it a little time before upgrading.
FYI I did the big bore, FCR, MRD/SSW and almost wish I had left it stock for the price it cost me. If you're going to get a pipe or carb, get THE WHOLE THING. I didn't notice ANY difference until I got the BB. Of course I sold it about 10k miles later and bought an FJR and a WR. Best of both worlds. Like they said- search on thumpertalk.com. I'm sure I probably have my jetting posted up there somewhere.
+1
I did the yosh 450 kit, fcr, etc. If you want it to be faster, just buy a KTM 690 or an SXV 550 and you will save yourself a lot of money and have a faster bike. DRZ's are a lot of fun but you'll be wasting money if you try to make it fast.
The lesson that DRZ owners learn the hard way. You can tell them all you want but they never listen. DRZ's are great little bikes but the are what they are.
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