HELP!!! Problem with my clutch! [VIDEO INCLUDED]

[ATL]

http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/818/file11049.mp4/

Here is a video of what I'm talking about.

What do I need to adjust to make the rear wheel stop spinning/getting power when I completely squeeze the clutch lever all the way in?

I'm still pretty new to all of this, so I'm not sure WTF i'm doing anymore.

I tried following Bolty.net to add "more freeplay to my clutch lever", thinking that would increase the distance between the clutch plates when I SQUEEZE the lever in- so there wouldn't always be power to the rear wheel.

Can anyone help me!??

ASAP please, because I'm about out of daylight to work on this thing with no garage.

Anybody?
-Chris

[ATL]

I'd be happy to buy somebody a 12pack if they're local and wouldn't mind coming to help me figure this out tonight.

I'm located near 120th and Federal in Westminster.

PM me for my cell number if you're available / interested to help tonight.
-Chris

[Clovis]

My bike does that too, I think it's normal.

[Penadam]

Looks like your problem is your clutch cable is too loose. You need to tighten it up so when you pull the clutch lever in, you fully disengage the clutch. You'll want to start at the lever: Loosen the locknut, then turn the adjuster in towards the lever. Pull the clutch in and see if it the cable tightens up partway through the travel. If it doesn't, continue adjusting the adjuster at the lever. When finished, retighten the locknut. If this doesn't provide sufficient adjustment, you'll have to make an adjustment at the clutch. Again, you want to remove slack from the cable to make it tighter.

Try this and see if it fixes it.

[Bueller]

Adjust the clutch lever so there is 1/8 to 1/4" free play and don't worry about the wheel spinning, unless you can feel the bike pulling forward when you are on it (off the stand) and in gear.
You can probably stop the wheel from spinning with your hand.

[ATL]

I've got myself sufficiently confused as to which way I turn these adjuster-bolts does what.

My symptom now is that the bike is really difficult to push (engine off, in gear w/clutch in).

Anyone know what needs adjusting (which way) to remedy that?
-Chris

[Penadam]

Is the bike easy to push in neutral? If so, then you're clutch is not fully disengaging, and you need to remove slack from the clutch cable. You want your clutch cable to get tighter/shorter.

[ATL]

Bike is easy to push in Neutral- tough to push in 1st with the clutch all the way in.
-Chris

[rfranks303]

What bueler said and it gets better when the bike is warm, At least from my experiance.

[Bueller]

turn the adjuster barrel all the way into (right) the perch, there will be a lot of fee play. Now turn the adjuster out until there is about 1/8" inch free play between the lever and the perch. Stop worrying about the wheel spinning and/or how hard it is to push the bike in gear. The clutch has drag on it, especially with cold oil.

[Jesterbass21]

If you havent heard yet the clutch is a series of plates ran by the lever and cable and springs. there will always be friction wich is why your tire spins when its in the air. the engine oil also lubricates the trans so until its warm the viscosity makes all the gears turn harder. the clutch doesnt actually remove the gears from each other just a friction plate.

[Jesterbass21]

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/motorcycle2.htm

[ATL]

Thanks for the posts guys.

I seemed to get it near enough to "back to normal" to ride it into the garage for the night. I'm still weary to get on the streets again before a fully geared formal test ride around the neighborhood to make sure clutch engages and disengages enough (smoothly) to warrant shifting up and down without me having something to worry about anything unexpected at highway speeds.

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys,
-Chris