I'm noticing that my brakes are squeeking at low speed as I'm coming to a complete stop. I put new Galfer sintered ceramic pads on mid-April. I've done 4 trackdays and street riding since I've had the new brake pads put on. Is it time for new pads already or is it something else causing the noise? Appreciate any input.
It's from pussy braking coming up to stoplights on the street. Give it a good handful of front brake a few times. If you want to be safe you can measure the amount of pad left
I would be inclined to think that ceramic pads are designed for higher heat (read: track) use, and don't work as well at lower temperatures as your stock pads did. That having been said, one of the symptoms I used to get when I was running Hawk pads back in the day on my Integra, was squeaking when the brakes were "cold."
You can easily check your calipers to see how much of the pad is remaining. Do you get these squeaks on the track as well?
Chris
Originally Posted by ~Barn~
There's nothing that will ever replace the warm feeling of a perfectly blipped 6th-to-4th downshift, that drops right lane traffic like 1st first semester chem-lab.
You may need to bevel the leading edge of the brake pad.
Sometimes pads will end up with leading edge squared off causing the pad to have uneven contact with the rotor under light braking conditions resulting in squeaking.
As a matter of practice, I always devel the leading edge of new pads before I install them.
Last edited by Jim_Vess; Fri Aug 8th, 2008 at 09:11 AM.
2005 Yamaha YZF-R6 (SOLD)
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Stupidity should be painful.
Try giving Sandro Milesi at Galfer TECH@GALFERUSA.COM
an email. He is very helpful to his customers--a good, family run business. Don't hesitate to let him know that Lee Parks Design recommended the contact.
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Doesn't EBC do this to their pads anyway?
Chris
There's nothing that will ever replace the warm feeling of a perfectly blipped 6th-to-4th downshift, that drops right lane traffic like 1st first semester chem-lab.
If you still have the stock brake lines that may be part of it. I had a squeek even with some hard braking. I was asking Mike at Supertune about it and he mentioned that they could be the issue due to line expansion during braking. I got steel lines from him and it does not squeek now, not to mention more consistant braking when its hot. If you have it going on with steel lines you might want to cross cut a groove in each pad.
Did you hone the rotors when you switched to the new pad?
Usually from the last pad, there will be residue left over on the rotors. The new material wont "mix" well with it. You should always hone your rotors when changing pads, especially from one material type to another.
Also, I would NEVER suggest cutting, beveling, etc to your pads. It will break the original shape and the pad will wear out much quicker. Not to mention the possibility of complete pad failure. Leave the pads as they come from the factory.
Casey D
Bevelling the leading edge of the pad will not cause them to wear out faster or fail. All you are doing is rounding the sharp corner off the leading edge which allows the pad to make full contact with the rotor. This remove much pad material and lets the pad wear evenly.
I've been doing it since the early 80's and haven't noticed any pre-mature pad wear and never had a pad fail.
To my knowledge you are not supposed to hone motorcycle rotors. The manufacturers recommend against it. If I'm misinformed about this, please enlighten me.
2005 Yamaha YZF-R6 (SOLD)
2013 Yamaha FZ6R
Stupidity should be painful.
Dang you Casey... haha I bevel my rear one cause Yami's are a pain in the rear to get the rear wheel on.. haha but Never the front.. Ive had squeek in the past many times.. usually was just a bit of glazed over on the pad.. light scuffing with some sand paper, clean them off from dust and re-install was good as new..
Honing rotors when changing coumpond materials of a pad is a good idea... (by honing its really more of a buffing than honing) Usually when going to carbon or organic or ceramic and back again, you will need to do that.. but Ive used EBC, OEM, and Ferodo (Sintered and Organic) and never had anh issues with not honing... Havent used Ceramic though...
Id say unless your Mat Mladin, you dont need new pads already though ...
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I'm not sure what the manufacturers say (I never follow them anyways) but I know the guys at Faster suggest it, and thats who I listen to. What would be the negative to cleaning up your rotors?
It works just like car rotors. If you want the new pad to seat in correctly, the surface needs to be fresh. Old pads will leave material behind, and also an imprint on the rotor. For best results, always hone the rotors.
Casey D
Oh man do I know what you are talking about. Ok get the spacers in, get the rear brake caliper in place, chain around sprocket, go to lift rear wheel up to get axle in, dam brake pads are together, cant get rotor to slide in, mess around with flat head screwdriver, try to seperate to make gap, drop axle, bust knuckle trying to force it, give up and ask my mechanic to put it on
Casey D
I'm not sure why the OEM's say don't do it. Maybe it's because bike rotors are thinner than car rotors or maybe it's just a way to sell more parts.
I've always cleaned up my rotors for new pads by giving them a light sanding with fine grit sandpaper.
Of course, now that I think about it, I was given these recommendations over 25 years ago. Times have changed - rotor and pad materials have greatly improved. I can tell by comparing the front brakes on my Seca that require full hand just to get it to stop, to the sweet brakes on my R6 - two fingers is all I ever need.
Thanks for the heads-up on the rotors. I'll talk to Faster when it's time for new pads.
2005 Yamaha YZF-R6 (SOLD)
2013 Yamaha FZ6R
Stupidity should be painful.
Oh man do I know what you are talking about. Ok get the spacers in, get the rear brake caliper in place, chain around sprocket, go to lift rear wheel up to get axle in, dam brake pads are together, cant get rotor to slide in, mess around with flat head screwdriver, try to seperate to make gap, drop axle, bust knuckle trying to force it, give up and ask my mechanic to put it on
Out of all the bikes I've owned, my 600RR was the most difficult to get the rear wheel back onto. Mix your process with a TON of yelling and foul language, sometimes the throwing of a wrench or two, and it magically goes back on.
Chris
There's nothing that will ever replace the warm feeling of a perfectly blipped 6th-to-4th downshift, that drops right lane traffic like 1st first semester chem-lab.
I didn't see anyone else mention this (unless I overlooked) but a real common source of squeal is vibration between the caliper pistons and pads. I've used Permatex Ultra Disc Brake lube in the past and have stopped squeal on my bikes. You just need to be careful of course and not over apply it.
No, it doesn't make the squeeking noise when braking on the track. Only when I'm just at the end of my braking while riding on the street.
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