Adjustable vs Standard Lowering Links

[bornwildnfree]

As I said in the other thread, I just got a 2008 ZX10R that is about an inch too tall for me. I just ordered a set of Spencer Threaded Lowering Links. http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Spencer/Links.asp

Anyone used adjustable links before for street?

[64BonnieLass]

Have the seat shaved on the top and on the sides. You won't miss the foam and you'll gain inches.

I also had the dealer screw my rear spring down just a smidge. I'll take all the centimeters I can get.

Do a search for 'seat shaving" I have some companies listed. I use ABZ. They have shaved 4 seats and have done wonderful work for me. Picking one up today from them in fact.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Well, be aware that there are things to consider when lowering a bike. You may have tire rubbing issues at full suspension compression. Also, be careful when adjusting them to make sure that they're both the same length so the suspension doesn't bind up, and make sure you have at least 2 (3+preferrably) full thread diameters worth of engagement of the male threads into the turnbuckle (middle hex).

Me, I'd leave it alone and just lean the bike a little more at a stoplight.....not like I have that problem though......

[Bueller]

http://www.soupysperformance.com/cat...00/4393129.htm

way cheaper

And if you lower both ends which would be a good idea to maintain geometry, your kickstand will likely need modification

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

The seat shaving is a better idea than screwing with the geometry of the bike. The downside is if you spend long days in the saddle (I'll do 10-14 hrs sometimes) I'd imagine you'll start to notice that missing foam.

Me, I'm glad that's never been an issue.

[asp_125]

Remember to lower the front and back equally. Anything else changes your suspension geometry from stock. Tipping it forward makes it turn in quicker but more nervous at speed, tipping it back makes it stable at speed but slower turn in.

[Bueller]

I also had the dealer screw my rear spring down just a smidge. I'll take all the centimeters I can get.

I assume you mean they reduced the preload on the rear spring, which is probably not a bad thing for you since you are very light, but adjusting preload in order to attain a desired ride height will likely have negative effects on suspension performance.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Also, realize that these are simply commercially available heim-jointed turnbuckles. If you can take an existing link off, accurately measure the fastener diameters (in mm), and can get the eye-to-eye length range of these adjustable ones, you can simply order them from a reputable industrial supply company for way cheaper. These things are used all over, it's not a new invention for motorcycles. I've spec'd them out several times for certain designs. Try searching for them. McMaster-Carr has them, so does Carr-Lane probably, and I'm sure many others if you look. Even $80 dollars is rediculous. These can probably be bought for $10/pair.

[64BonnieLass]

I don't miss the missing foam. My butt hurts after a long ride either way. It's really never bothered me at all. Plus I would rather have the security of gaining inches to touch the ground, then worrying about my rear's happiness.

Way better option then messing with the bike, and the installation, and the kick stand etc. But that is only what has worked for me. Everyone is different.

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Good points John and Bueller.

[64BonnieLass]

I assume you mean they reduced the preload on the rear spring, which is probably not a bad thing for you since you are very light, but adjusting preload in order to attain a desired ride height will likely have negative effects on suspension performance.

Correct. And I said only a smidge not a lot. I did the same on the SV and never had an issue, but between the two it got me to the balls of my feet instead of my tippy toes. I can almost flat foot the SV if I stretch real hard. LOL

[bornwildnfree]

I've talked to two shops about shaving the seat and they both have told me that it will not produce the desired affect because of the seat design on the 2008 ZX10R. They are shops that deal directly with rebuilding sportbike seats so they know their stuff. I only need to lower the bike about an inch and they don't make 1" lowering links here in the States that I can find so I have to use adjustable links. I lowered my SV 2" (then put it back up, but the ZX is an inch taller than the SV stock height) so I'm familiar with lowering a bike, but I've never used the adjustable links before and was wondering if anyone had experience with them.

[Bueller]

Just an idea....

[OUTLAWD]

personally, I'd prefer the regular lowering links, but the ones in the link look decent.

Like eveyone else is saying, lower the front and rear the same amount, then make sure you still adjust the sag. and you will most likely have to alter the side stand

[Zach929rr]

You could always return that and get a 65 or 150.

[rybo]

Also,

By changing the link length you are changing the dynamics of the suspension. 1" of travel at the wheel does NOT equal 1" of compression at the shock. Furthermore some linkages are "rising rate" meaning that the further you compress them, or pivot them the more force it takes to continue compressing the rear suspension. Manufacturers design this in because they have NO IDEA what you weigh, or if you're going to take a passenger or or or....

Changing the links changes the function of the suspension, so I propose yet another option.

Have a suspension pro insert a spacer in your shock to keep it from extending all the way. I've had this done for several bikes I've worked on and the results have been outstanding. This means that the linkage, links and intended design remain the same.

I agree strongly with the above to lower the front and rear the same amount, otherwise you'll be "choppering" the bike out a bit which will make it turn in slower and tend to push the front wheel a bit at corner exit.

S

[bornwildnfree]

@rybo - that's a really good idea. Any suggestions on a suspension expert?

[bornwildnfree]

I learned the lesson the hard way about lowering the front and the back the same amount. When I lowered the SV, I had Co Pow in Thornton lower it and they lowered the front 1" and the rear 2". I didn't know that they had done anything wrong and rode it for about 3 months figuring there was something wrong with the way I was riding. My buddy finally rode my bike and said "How have you not crashed?" We lowered the front to 2" and the difference was amazing. I know I'm messing with the design of the bike, but there is really no help for it. It's about an inch too tall. I think I will look at Rybo's suggestion though.

[Foolds]

http://greatdaytoride.com/Home_Page.php

this guy can shave your seat and make it more comfy all at the same time. Hes AWESOME! he made the bus bench seat on my sv feel great even on 400-500 mile rides. his prices arnt bad as it is.

[ChrisCBX]

http://www.soupysperformance.com/cat...00/4393129.htm

way cheaper

And if you lower both ends which would be a good idea to maintain geometry, your kickstand will likely need modification

I used one of these on Maria's Triumph. If you are going the lowering link route, this is a good option. VERY sturdy construction.

And like Bueller says, we also needed to customize the side stand as well.

[OUTLAWD]

Also,

By changing the link length...

I was thinking the same thing, but didn't want to get all nerdy...there are enough of those threads floating around...

@rybo - that's a really good idea. Any suggestions on a suspension expert?

Probably Dave @ STM, up in FoCo

http://www.stmsuspension.com/


If you need someone to ride it up here for ya...I can help you out

[MetaLord 9]

Just ride Sully Style and take no prisoners

[rybo]

I was thinking the same thing, but didn't want to get all nerdy...there are enough of those threads floating around...

This is strange......freakin' engineer not wanting to get nerdy?

[CYCLE_MONKEY]

Just an idea....

Best. Idea. Yet.